by Myrtle (Johnson) Branin
Saturday, August 4, 1956.
3:00 a.m. – At last it was time to start! Anticipation was becoming realization. Stella had a percolator of her good coffee all ready for us. Coffee and rolls and the final loading of the car and we were off. The clock on the F. & M. waved her hands at 3:50 as we flashed by. We skimmed quickly through San Timotea Canyon and San Bernardino and were soon out on the desert watching the sun rise over the wastes. The Pontiac seemed as eager as we to leave work and worries behind and seemed to leap forward under Mabel’s skillful guidance. We arrived in Las Vegas about 9:30 and were ready for breakfast and a chance to see a few of the sights of that famed resort. We had very delicious hot cakes, coffee, bacon and juice at the Sal Sagev where we ate to the clang and clatter of the “one armed bandits.” After breakfast we strolled about trying our luck and losing a few nickels. However, we were anxious to be on our way and to cover as much ground as possible before it became too hot.
However, it was a very pleasant day and not nearly as warm as we had anticipated. The miles sped pleasantly by and we crossed the boundary into Utah. We stopped just outside Cedar City for a picnic lunch. Cedar City was a pretty little place but most of the towns we passed through looked desolate and deserted. Weeds were everywhere. Saw very few prosperous looking farms. About 5:00 p.m. we began to think about our night’s lodging. Fillmore seemed the logical place to stop. We found rooms with twin beds at the El Rancho Motel. We had a rather disappointing dinner at the town’s only eating place and then strolled out to visit the first capitol of Utah. The building housed a rather interesting museum and an enormous collection of “enlarged” portraits of the founding Mormons. Never had we seen such a collection of long mournful faces. The building was used only two months as the capital when the seat of government was moved to Salt Lake City which we hope was a happier place. We sat in a chair in which Brigham Young had sat but didn’t feel a thing.
Returning to our Motel we fell into conversation with our landlord. The office of the Motel was located in an old Mormon home built 105 years ago. It seems that the Mormons in building their homes planned a gable for each wife. He said this particular Mormon had three wives. Going out to our rooms we looked up – there were five gables across the front, five across the rear and one at each end. The principal sport the next day was counting gables. We even found some in barns so decided there were some Mormon bulls in residence. So to bed and a good night’s sleep.
II Day – Sunday, August 5, 1956
Another beautiful morning greeted us as we started forth about 6:15. We stopped at Provo and had a very good breakfast at a cafe adjoining the Conoco Station. Then on through Provo Canyon. This proved to be a beautiful spot and one to linger in. Beautiful Bridal Veil Falls plunges down a perpendicular wall to a busy stream below. The road leads between perpendicular walls with lovely coloring. As the canyon opened out we were in a country of highly colored rocks and canyons. Soon we had our first view of the lovely Tetons. The hills became more heavily wooded and we were soon in Jackson. We drove on past many lovely lakes and streams to Jackson Lake Lodge where we hoped to have one of their famous dinners and spend the night. In this we were disappointed and learned we would have to drive forty miles back to Jackson to get accommodations. Jackson was crowded but we found adjoining rooms with double beds for which we were grateful. After dinner at the Wagon Wheel Cafe (goat milk – Rocky Mountain) we were ready for bed.
III Day – Monday, August 6, 1956
Up at 4:30 and off in short order so we could see the sun rising on the Tetons. The air was fresh and cold and all the world was beautiful. We stopped at the Little Church of the Transfiguration and went inside. The tiny log church has a large picture window behind the alter which frames a breathtaking view of the Tetons with their jagged peaks piercing the sky and their feet buried in the deep blue lakes and green forests. “A Sermon In Stones.” Going on, to Jackson Lake Lodge we stopped for breakfast and while waiting for the dining room to open we feasted our eyes on the magnificent view from the picture windows of the lounge. Jackson Lake stretched out before us and mirrored in its blue waters were the lovely spires and peaks faintly tinged with pink and with wisps of fog rising from its canyons. A place to sit and dream
After a good breakfast we phoned for reservations for the night at Old Faithful Inn in Yellowstone and then were again on the road. More lakes and streams with the beautiful Tetons in view for many miles. Entering Yellowstone we stopped at a way station and confirmed our reservations for the night. We encountered Mr. and Mrs. Parkhurst and their children here. They were enroute to North Dakota. Our route then carried us toward Fishing Bridge and Artist’s Point. Our progress was slowed by the many bears and their cubs along the way. They were hopefully stopping cars and begging food. One old mother and two cubs caused quite a traffic jam.
Our first view of the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone was from “Artists Point”. The falls are a “perfect jewel in a perfect setting” and this was another spot to linger and spend hours and not grow weary of looming. At last we had to leave and going back to our car I spied a familiar pair of shoulders and sure enough there was Harold Ensley with his wife and three children. They were trailering and having a wonderful time. From Artist’s Point we drove across the canyon and high up on the brink to Inspiration Point. Far below us lay the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, Lower Falls and the river. The coloring of rock walls and spires was beautiful. A nest of Eagles perched on top of a rock spire beneath us. Reluctantly, we retraced our stops and turned toward the Inn. We soon came to the region of boiling mud pots and geysers and our first view of Old Faithful. On reaching the Inn we settled in our room. After baths we strolled out for a closer view of the surrounding geysers and arranged to meet. Ada Almquist for dinner. The first sight of the geyser basins were a disappointment to me as I had expected them to be much more colorful. Also thought there would be much more of rush and roar than accompanies an eruption. As it grew darker we realized how very many geysers surrounded us. The white wraiths of steam arose everywhere against the night sky. After a delicious dinner we adjourned to the lobby where an organ recital was in progress. A huge four faced fireplace rises in the center of the lobby. Four or five tiers of balconies surround the room. On one of those we found seats and enjoyed the music of an expert organist. At 9:00 o’clock we adjourned to the outer balcony to view the 9:00 o’clock performance of Old Faithful. At that time colored lights are thrown on the gushing steam making a lovely effect against the night sky. Ten o’clock found us sleepy and ready for bed. What a busy day. We have already seen so much.
IV Day – Tuesday, August 7, 1956.
Breakfast at the Inn and while the Pontiac is being serviced and washed we go out to wander among the pools, geysers, mud pots and boiling plaster. The stench of rotten eggs and the spitting of boiling mud from the Dragon’s mouth, the bubbling and stewing that seemed to come from the nethermost regions made me wonder if we were seeing a new land in the making or the last seething of a tired old evil spirit. About noon we started northward heading for the Gardiner entrance of the Park. Everywhere along the way were geysers and mud pots. On our right was Roaring Mountain a veritable hill of geysers. We waited for some time to hear it roar but like a watched pot it failed to boil. On our left lay sinister marshes with steam and boiling mud rising in anger – perhaps at our passing. No “Keep Off” signs were needed to keep our feet well on the highway.
Gradually the terrain changed and our road led us beside a lovely stream. Soon we heard the roar of falls and turning a bend we came on beautiful Asprey Falls plunging down a narrow canyon of highly colored rocks. Ahead of us the cliffs almost closed over the road. Their walls were a vivid red and gold giving the name of Golden Gate to the passage. Reaching Mammoth Hot Springs, we stopped for lunch at the Hotel after which we resumed our journey out of the park and on to Helena for the night. We found rooms at the Capital Hotel and drove downtown for dinner then back again by way of the well- kept grounds of the Capital building. Then showers and the inevitable laundering of intimate apparel. Soon every motel room seemed the same as we went to sleep amid drying hose, slips and pants.
V Day – Wednesday, August 8, 1956
Mabel had a bad night but insisted that we journey off so 7:30 saw us on our way. We breakfasted at Chateau and drove on to East Glacier where we decided to rest up for the day. By this time Stella had joined Mabel on the sick list so as soon as we found quarters (Scenic Mountain View Motel) the girls piled into bed. Frida and I took advantage of the extra time to launder denim skirts and rearrange our belongings. Then leaving the gals asleep we fared forth. The grounds of the East Glacier Hotel invited us to wander. The flowers were gorgeous. A solid row of varied shades of blue delphinium, about twenty feet wide and at least a couple of hundred yards long led down from the hotel entrance to a huge bed at the gates. They were higher than my head and with the background of lawns, forests and rustic hotel building made a never to be forgotten sight. We poked our noses in the R. R. Station and prowled through the few shops. Bought a can of soup and a pan to heat it in in case the girls felt like some nourishment. So home to find the girls improved and ready to eat a little. All were ready for early bedtime, Frida and I in a rollaway bed in the kitchen. Mabel and Stella reveling in a double bed apiece.
VI Day Thursday, August 9, 1956.
8:00 a.m. Mabel and Stella look a little weak and wan but are ready to travel on. The drive around the south end of the park was lovely and wound through canyons and woods along the many streams and bubbling brooks to West Glacier. Just out of West Glacier we came to Lake McDonald and stopped at the Lodge. Here were some of the most beautiful azaleas we had ever seen growing in beds about the Lodge. The dining room was closed so we crossed a rocky stream to the coffee shop for breakfast. Here is where I cashed “That first Traveler’s Check.” Breakfast over we retraced our stops to the Going to the Sun Highway and started to climb upward. Higher and higher we climbed a stairway to the stars. Everywhere we looked, beautiful vistas opened before our eyes. Glaciers close enough to touch on one side and mountain streams in deep wooded canyons below us on the other. Waterfalls leaping over mountain walls and all along the wayside asters and goldenrod blooming in profusion. Then to crown it all we reached the top of Logan Pass and were standing on the Continental Divide. Here standing in a meadow of flowers reminded me of the fields of childhood wanderings. We looked down on a panorama of glacier filled canyons, green forests, plunging streams and up at mountains climbing still higher in the sky. Surely this was it! No place could compete. Reluctant to leave we started down the mountain canyon and were soon driving along the banks of St. Mary‘s lakes. Turning off the highway at the tip of Lower St. Mary’s lake we drove to the Many Glaciers Hotel on the shores of Swift Current Lake. This was a beautiful building in a more austere setting. Almost surrounded by mountains with glaciers filling every crevice and canyon it was quite spectacular. At the coffee shop we had some very good ice cream sodas and after a stroll about the grounds we resumed our journey. Entering Canada at Carway we drove on thru the roller coaster hills of Alberta to Lethbridge where we had decided to spend the night and a part of the following day. Here another El Rancho Motel intrigued us and we were fortunate enough to get a nice room with double beds, television, radio, etc. A dining room adjoining served us a very good dinner. A smorgasbord salad bar provided a large variety of salads and a charming waitress added much to our enjoyment of the meal. After dinner we drove down town to window shop, then home where we enjoyed a television show featuring a rabbit with a decided English accent and so to bed.
VII Day – Friday, August 10, 1956
After a more leisurely breakfast than usual we were downtown in Lethbridge. Mabel was on the trail of Spode and finding the largest stock at the Consumer’s Hardware she was soon occupied in choosing a pattern. Stella and I hunted up a bank to cash some checks. Much to my consternation my checkbook was missing. Weak with fear and seeing myself stranded sans funds I sought out Frida. Back, to the bank and with the assistance of a very nice young man and a magic card carried by Frida, I was issued some new checks. Frida sure comes in handy on a trip. Next a visit to the telephone office and a call to Lake McDonald. My check book had been found in the coffee shop where I had cashed my first check.
Many groups of Hutterites on streets of Lethbridge – Russian Mennonites. They live in communities with common dining room. Women and girls dressed in black skirts, long and gathered with long sleeved blouses and wearing the gayest aprons of prints and plaids. Men were in black frock coats and wide brimmed hats.
Mabel had completed her purchase and the entire force of the Consumer’s Hardware were interested in repacking our car. After the check episode the gals were willing to take the Spode and leave me behind but they finally fitted me in and we were off. At Fort McLeod we stopped to make reservations for our stay at Banff and enjoyed a picnic lunch before proceeding to Calgary. We reached Calgary about two in the afternoon and found nice accommodations at the Hepburn Motel just outside the City. As we were planning a call on Mary’s aunt and uncle – recent arrivals from Australia – we set out to look them up. After various directions and misdirections we found their home. We had intended staying just a few minutes but they insisted we come in for coffee and scones and to see their home. They were so very hospitable and interesting that an hour or two sped by and our visit ended by all gathering around a piano in the basement for a sing. The singing started bravely but soon Frida was singing accompanied by Mrs. Lyne and we were all listening. It was a pleasant interlude in our trip and one we would not have missed. Frida can sing, can drive and carries a card that opens bank vaults — I feel like excess baggage. Heading for down town Calgary we were lost in a maze of “one wiy streets.” At one corner we sat for what seemed like hours waiting for the lights to change in our favor. A young man in a corner store seemed much amused at our quandary and finally came out and told us we were going the wrong “wiy” on a “one wiy street.“ He stepped out into the intersection and stopped all traffic while we made our turn. Looking in the shop from which he emerged we saw a whale row of clerks enjoying our predicament. Downtown Calgary was in confusion. Streets were being torn up, buildings were being torn down. A cow town was about to put on dude pants. All the streets seemingly were “one wiy” and none of them ours. After running around in squares, we finally found a parking space and dinner at the Copper Kettle. A little disappointing, noisy and the food not too good. Duncan Hines can have it. After some shopping and more playing hide and seek to find our way home we were settled in our rooms for the night.
VIII Day – Saturday, August 11, 1956
Up and downtown in Calgary for breakfast and some shopping. Then at last on our way to Banff. We had reservations for three nights at the Alpine Motel which proved to be close in on our way into town. Seemed good to unpack and settle down for a few days. We had picnicked along the way so as soon as we were settled we were off to see the town. Banff lies tucked in pines with Mt. Rundle, Mt. Cascade and the peaks of the Fairholme range towering over all. A quick tour of the shops and we were off to the government building to visit the gardens. Entering the gardens, we were struck speechless by the beauty of the scene. Flowers were everywhere tumbling happily down the hillside, along a stream in a rocky channel, over and under bridges and arches. Flowers blooming their hearts out and planted by the hand of an artist. Called the Cascades of Time, to me they were Cascades of Beauty, another picture to store in memory and take out and cherish. Promising ourselves another visit to this spot we returned to dine at Andreannes. So home to a game of Samba and bed.
IX Day – Sunday, August 12, 1956.
This was the day set aside for a visit to Lake Louise. After breakfast at the Quaker Cafe in Banff we set off. The morning was lovely and the scenery superb. On our way we detoured to see lovely Lake Moraine and reached Lake Louise just in time to have dinner at the Chateau. Dinner was delicious and beautifully served. If Glacier was the most spectacular scene of our trip, Lake Louise was the most beautiful. Lying in the shadow of the huge Victoria Glacier it is surrounded by dense green, green forests. Across the lake from the Glacier the lovely lawns, flower gardens and building of the Chateau are mirrored in its waters. A haunting memory of peace and beauty remains to take away. This must be the place where dreams are made and nightmares never come. A lazy afternoon then back to Banff where we drove up to the Chateau there and then another visit to our gardens. This time soft lights glowed among the flowers as we lingered on the paths.
X Day – Monday, August 13, 1956
Breakfast again at the Quaker Cafe and we are off to the Columbia Ice Fields. Here we encountered our first really bad roads. Thirty-two miles of heavy construction. Dust was inches thick and settled everywhere. We inched our way along and finally arrived in time for a bite of lunch before tackling the glacier in a Snomobile. The glacier was a remnant of one which just a few years ago covered the entire valley. It was about 500 feet thick and we went up to an elevation of 7500 feet from about 6500 in the valley below.
Our driver pointed out many interesting things, crevasses, water holes, overhanging glaciers and air bubbles 150 feet deep. The run off from this glacier finds its way to the Arctic Ocean. I got quite a thrill out of that. Another drive heme over the dusty bumpy road with me sitting on the Spade to hold in down. Dinner at Andreanne’s again and home to bed at an early hour.
XI Day – Tuesday, August 14, 1956.
Reluctantly we repack the car and after breakfast and some last-minute shopping in Banff we turn our car out of Banff. As we had not visited the ski lift we detoured past it and were all swinging in our chairs high up the mountain. At the 7000-foot level we walked out on the ramp looking out over Banff and the beautiful valley where the Bow River lives up to its name looping and curling through the forests and mountain meadows. Back down the chair lift and soon on our homeward way. All morning we traveled through beautiful country. Mountains forests and streams in an ever-changing scene. Radium Hot Springs looked like a very interesting place. Wish we had time to stop a bit. Green mountain sides scored by snow slides. We are forever spoiled for any other spot. Emerging from the mountains nightfall found us at Kimberley. A dusty dirty town. Motels were hard to find but we settled for a dingy room at the outskirts of town. Everything was covered with dust. Stella could not stand it and she went off and found a mop to clean the floor. After a mediocre dinner downtown, we all turned in. I had the beginnings of a headache and knew I was in for a miserable night. None of us slept well and we were glad to be up and away at an early hour.
XII Day – Wednesday, August 15, 1956.
I was miserable but glad to leave that unpleasant place. The day was a nightmare to me as we rolled across the border at King’s Gate om down to Couer d alene through Spokane and came to rest in a nice clean motel at Pascoe in Washington. A good hot bath and I crawled between those nice fresh sheets and knew no more until morning.
XIII Day – Thursday, August 16, 1956.
After a wonderful night’s rest and a good breakfast in Pascoe we were again on the road. Our route brought us to Pendleton and as Frida wanted to phone the Hagens we stopped at the Grain Growers building. She met Howard Hagen there and he insisted we must visit the ranch. He phoned Buelah and we had a morning long to be remembered. We were shown the ranch, the lovely ranch home and townhouse. Had wonderful coffee and angel food cake at the ranch seated around the same dining table that Mrs. Hagen had in her home here. We met Howard’s attractive wife and daughter and made to feel so very welcome that time slipped by so fast that we were late starting out again. I had always pictured Pendleton as a flat hot town set in a desert like country but found it a pretty, busy little city nestled in rolling hills of grain. The road led us out through these rolling hills and endless grain fields to some lovely wooded canyons. We had a late lunch or early dinner at a nice little cafe in Canyon City. We were soon out on the waste lands of eastern Oregon heading for Winnemucca, Nevada. Darkness found us still on the lonely road. We seemed alone in the world except for an occasional cow wandering out in our path. We just missed having steaks draped on our headlights. Close to midnight we crossed the boundary at McDermit. We stopped for gas and to replace a burned-out headlight. An unsavory looking eating place adjoined the station with its usual group of shady looking characters hanging around. We were glad to be on the road again. So on into the night and about midnight we arrived in Winnemucca on a highway which had not as yet been opened to travel. We opened it. We found a hotel room with double beds. We were surrounded by gambling rooms and Juke boxes. Empty caravan trucks passed the hotel every fifteen minutes bouncing and jerking beneath our windows. At least we had an opportunity to shower and change.
XIV Day – Friday, August 17, 1956.
Breakfast in the hotel dining room and on to Reno where we arrived close to noon. After a short tour of the town we had lunch at Harold’s Club and were on our way. We took a very whirl-a-gig of a road spiraling upward on Mount Rose. We must have reached quite a high elevation as we looked down on snow still lying in canyons. It was a beautiful drive. We passed entrance to the Reno Ski Bowl then began to descend a more gentle grade. We soon looked down on beautiful Lake Tahoe, its waters sparkling in the sun. All of our trip seemed blended in one perfect picture, sparkling water, the green of forests, cloud flecked skies and snow-clad peeks. At Kings Beach in Tahoe we found very nice lodgings at the Wood Vista Lodge. Settling our belongings quickly we were off again for a ride along the lakeshore and to visit Fishing Bridge. Dinner time found us close to the Monte Carlo on the Nevada side so we dined to the accompaniment of the clang of the one-armed bandits, the click of the roulette wheels and much to Stella’s disgust the yapping of a poodle dog. We had a delicious dinner and so back to the Motel to enjoy the moonlight under the pines. A game or two of Samba and we were all sleepy and ready for bed.
XV Day – Saturday, August 18, 1956.
A coffee bar at the motel furnished our morning coffee and with same rolls purchased at the bakery we enjoyed breakfast on the lawn under the pines. The Pontiac was due for servicing so we left it at a garage in the village and Mabel set off for a tour of the shops while Frida, Stella and I went for a speed boat ride on the lake. It was a dazzling morning and we had a lovely trip. Some time we are coming back to spend more time this way. Joining Mabel, we toured the shops, had lunch and started off again. Our way led out through forests and across wide valleys to Bishop where we had another very good dinner at the Travel-lodge Cafe. Then on to Lone Pine where we had reservations for the night – our last night of the trip. We arrived there about 8:30 and found we had a huge room with twin beds and a double bed. We started a game of Samba to see who drew the twin beds. Mabel and Stella took us so the prize was theirs. Frida and I cut cards to see who should have the booby prize – the soup pot we had bought in E. Glacier. Frida won this so I crawled into the corner and slept in spite of all.
XVI Day – Sunday, August 19, 1956.
On our last day! Sadly we packed the Pontiac for the last time giving an affectionate pat to the Spode which had traveled much of the way with us. Somewhere along the way we had breakfast than sped quickly over the desert road toward home and work. Noon found us at Gilman Hot Springs hungry and out of gas and practically broke. However by emptying the kitty of its nickels, dimes and pennies we gave the Pontiac its last drink and ourselves a cup of coffee and a sandwich and so home with memories to last a life time.
Night finds me unable to sleep so get up and drape my just laundered hose, slip and panties over my bed and go off to sleep. Wake and wonder which motel I am in. And so the end of a perfect trip.